A little round-up, and general thoughts about what turned out to be a fortnight of cooking: I used three cookbooks for this project and I was expecting to use Complete Illustrated Cookery most as I'd used it previously. In the end I used it least as many of the recipes in it are for larger households (6-8 people). However it did contribute several good recipes including the vegeburgers. I used the Odhams book, which turned out to be written by a Lydia Chatterton (credit where it's due!) a lot more than expected. I generally found its instructions excellent although there were one or two misfires, like the dodgy quantities for the lemon cake. (Odhams Press books are mid-century gems of popular knowledge and although they look unspectacular on the outside are often filled with fascinating stuff, so if you spot one in a charity shop, do investigate.) I hadn't cooked from the Bestway cookbook before and I found it generally good but a bit vague about cooking times and temperatures.
Both the Odhams and the Complete Illustrated Cookery book were great because of the sheer volume of recipes inside, which meant that instead of choosing a recipe and buying ingredients, in most cases I was able to look at what ingredients I had and find recipes to suit. I did get in some ingredients I wouldn't normally use, mostly tinned things: pineapple, lobster, peas, as well as dried fruit and nuts. One thing both cookbooks were good on was how to re-use things so that they weren't wasted, but also aren't the same as the previous meal. I feel like this has been good for my food re-use skills. As well as putting less into the bin than usual, I was surprised to put less into the compost.
One thing I realised was that some English vegetables are massively under-rated and have unjustly acquired a bad name for various reasons. Celery, for example. I associate celery with those unpleasant, dried up sticks you get to dip into hummus. Joyless, stringy, chewy, and part of a low-calorie diet. In fact, celery is useful for all sorts of things, cooked or raw, and delicious. Ditto turnips, which are tasty and crunchy. I also realised it's ok to use glace cherries as an ingredient. I've always loved glace cherries but as a kid used to be told off for eating them from the pot as they were reserved for cake decorating purposes. In fact, there's a few things I've been put off eating by my parents insistence that they had to be eaten unadorned and unenjoyably, for some sort of moral reason.
Anyway, compared to the Edwardian cookbook I cooked from, I felt like this food was quite pleasure-oriented, more frivolous and adventurous. It was much lighter and fresher, and had a wider range of ingredients. But it wasn't just the wider range of things that made it different, it was also an attitude, a sort of embracing of experimentation that was about those decades. Speaking of experimentation, I haven't yet worked my way through the cocktail section of either of these books, a shocking omission on my part.
One thing I wanted to add a note about was breakfast. I didn't make a point of using the cookbooks for breakfast, but I usually have porridge or toast or else leftovers, so I pretty much stayed within the general spirit of the thing. I did think, looking at the breakfast menus in the cookbooks, that we have got really conservative about what constitutes a breakfast dish, as the variety suggested is much wider than what we would expect these days. In a wider sense, it was quite apparent that not only have we added things to our diet since that era, we've dropped a lot as well, and not all of them were unpleasant. I wanted to cook sorrel soup, but no idea where to get the ingredients for that.
As previously noted, one of the reasons I kept going after the planned ten-day mark was how disgustingly healthy I felt. I definitely lost a pound or two of weight, despite making 1 cake, 1 pie, 1 batch each of shortbread, scones, sausage rolls and biscuits, 1 chocolate pudding, and a large sugary fruit salad - a selection not likely to show up in many diet books. I am a bit baffled by this, but wonder if the fact I ate more protein and veg and less carbs than usual may have been behind it. Or it may have been that I expended more calories cooking and shopping, or that eating home-cooked goodies instead of bought ones made me in general feel less hungry, so I ate fewer snacks between meals. Or a combination of all three. Incidentally, as I was curious about this, I looked up the 'official' advice about what you're supposed to eat for a healthy diet. I have never seen a more jumbled and confusing set of instructions, ever.
Anyway, overall I found this little cooking odyssey a positive experience, with highlights including the haddock and lobster pie, the celery soup, the lardy chips, and the winter fruit salad. Even the vegeburgers, to my surprise. Low point was definitely the stinky kidneys, although I do have a hankering to try steak and kidney pudding, now. One of the reasons I decided to give this a go was because I learned so many new cooking skills doing the Edwardian week, and this has definitely been good both for that, and also for breaking a few bad habits! I am aware now that if I carry on in chronological order and do another one of these, the next era I land up on is WW2 cooking, which is a bit daunting and scary. I might have to gird my loins for a fight, before that.
Yesterday was my last day of 1930s cooking. I'm looking forward to a couple of days without cooking and/or mounds of washing up! That said, I carried on for several days longer than I originally intended to, partly because I was enjoying it, and partly because I felt much healthier than usual - less tired/hungry and more energy. I will try and post a little roundup tomorrow. Thanks for reading!
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Despite my reservations this was a great meal. The chips looked pale and interesting but tasted amazing. There was no taste of oil like you get in chip-shop chips, they tasted light and crisp and potato-ey. The fat ran off quickly and was absorbed by the paper, so they didn't seem fatty or greasy. (I've got through loads of greaseproof paper in the last fortnight - never previously realised just how useful it was) They were a hassle to cook but so delicious I think I would make chips like this again. Yup, when it comes to chips I am converted to the way of the lard. (Is lard actually bad for you, anyway?)
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One of the interesting things about cooking from these books is you can see two strains of cooking going on: one is the inherited kind, the stews and suet puddings and so on, the other a newer, friskier, more inventive kind, that likes colours and unexpected flavours. I really like this as a style, and a set of ingredients: it's more diverse than the ingredients and styles in the Edwardian cookbook I cooked from last year, but not yet affected by the over-finickyness and chemical horrors that invaded post-war food.
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Speaking of embarrassments, the shepherds pie made with the kidneys was actually nice and smelt hardly at all, so I don't know quite what went on there. I ate it for Thursday dinner/friday lunch, without any ill effects whatsoever.
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Wednesday I'd promised to take cake into the office, so was going to have another go at treacle scones, but instead spotted this recipe for walnut gingerbread and decided to try that. It was an unusual combination of ingredients, and rose dead flat, rather than in the middle like a cake. I had the first piece hot with cream and it was awesome. Very popular in the office. Easy to make, portable, tasty: will make this again.
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I made mashed potatoes as well, partly to reassure myself that if the kidneys were inedible, I'd have something to eat. I checked the kidneys, and have to admit the appearance did improve as it cooked. However, when I stirred it there was still this terrible stench, so I googled 'kidneys smelly when cooking,' which at least reassured me that it was probably not an indicator of imminent ecoli. Nothing if not nervous, I sat down with my dinner.
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Apart from this, it did seem like a pie filling in search of a pie. I am minded to exonerate the recipe, which wasn't difficult and turned out exactly like the picture. I wasn't ill, so don't think the meat was off, but I am a suspicious of the kidneys, and wonder if maybe a small organic producer doesn't know how to clean or prepare them properly. Or else they just expect people to feed them to their dogs.
Anyway because I am a masochist, and hate wasting things, and needed a night off cooking, I made the leftover kidney stew and mash into a sort of shepherds pie to eat tonight. Look, if my ancestors survived the industrial revolution I can survive two nights of stinkney stew.
The chocolate pudding was more successful, thankfully. I was expecting a cold pudding that'd come out like a mould, but it actually was more like a chocolate custard, with a little top layer of meringue on top. It was perfectly pleasant, if nothing special to look at, nicely chocolatey, and would have gone well with something like a chopped banana. Quite nice, but not convinced it was worth it on the faff to result ratio.
Today I nipped to the supermarket. I've been running out of 'staple' things all week: eggs, flour, milk, sugar, potatoes and veg. Despite the queasy kidney stew, I really do feel healthy after ten days of this, and also, to my surprise, think I may have lost a pound or two in weight. I can't work out why. It is possible I simply worked it off standing in front of the sink scrubbing at endless heaps of washing up, swearing fulsomely, but I've also noticed I've eaten less carbs like bread and pasta, and more protein and vegetables, than normal. I find it hard to believe my sugar consumption has dropped.
Anyway, partly as a result of feeling disgustingly healthy, and not having got through all the recipes I wanted to try, and also not wanting to go out on a low point, I've decided to carry on until Saturday, which'll make it a round fortnight.
Back at work today. Last week I spotted a recipe for what is basically a 1930s vegeburger, so flippantly offered/threatened to cook it for my colleague, who is vegan. She seemed unexpectedly keen, so that's what we both had for lunch today. (I live near enough the office to come home for lunch - I know, it's actually like the 1930s or something). I didn't exactly follow the recipe but tweaked it a bit. I had no peas, and substituted purple sprouting for cauliflower. To start with, I cubed vegetables and cooked them with a stock cube, then added cornflour and a teaspoon of olive oil, and let the mixture cook down with the lid off.
I cooked the veg in the morning, intending to strain off excess liquid later, but when I came back at lunchtime, what liquid there was had formed into a sort of paste around the vegetables. I smushed them up a bit with a potato masher, then tried to form the veg into a burger shape by using a cake cutter. It was no use at all, so I had to use my hands instead. It was pretty sticky - I've been noticing all week, how much sticky, visceral, tactile contact I've been having with the food I'm making - then dropped the burger shapes into a pile of breadcrumbs and grated more on top. (Tip: if you have stale bread, bung it in the freezer, it is easy to grate into breadcrumbs) Finally, I cooked them in olive oil, not deep fried but maybe a bit more oil than usual for a shallow fry, on quite a decent heat.
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Anyway I was really surprised at how good the vegeburger, sorry cutlet, turned out to be. We had it in white rolls with lettuce and chutney and it was excellent. I was worried the breadcrumbs would burn but actually they just got nicely crunchy. Vegan colleague was favourably impressed. A very pleasant healthy lunch, far better than a tasteless, soy-based burger. Also, a good way to use up leftover vegetables. Only word of warning: I wouldn't try and grill these, they don't hold together well until the frying starts to get going, and would definately not keep their shape.
Day Eight Update
Monday was a bank holiday (sorry, US readers) and also a friend's birthday do, so I offered to cook some things for it. The birthday was originally supposed to be in the garden, but a torrential thunderstorm caused a last minute relocation to the pub. Fortunately the pub in question doesn't do food so didn't mind us sitting there munching.
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I also made a Macedoine Salad which is in both cookbooks in slightly different variations. It's basically cold cubed potatoes, turnip and carrot in mayonnaise, plus any other vegetables you have to use up. I added leftover cooked purple sprouting, spring onions, and chopped radishes, and put it all on a bed of lettuce with leftover asparagus on top. The radishes were great, and one thing that one book said about radishes is that you can eat the leaves, which I never heard before. So I washed a few radish leaves, got rid of any grotty ones, and put them in with the lettuce. I thought they were eminently edible, and would do this again instead of chucking them in the compost. I liked this salad, and birthday girl loved it, but some people turned their noses up - whether because they don't like salad, or at it's specific appearance, I don't know. Anyway it was the only thing that half of it came home again.
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I am not responsible for the goat: my friend keeps goats so that was one of her birthday presents.
Day Six/Seven Update
Yesterday I went to Stroud, which gave me a chance to go to the farmers' market. Although British asparagus hadn't appeared in the supermarket in Bristol, there were stalls selling heaps of it, as well as other vegetable delicacies like British rhubarb and purple sprouting. Also lots of other veg that met the criteria of what you should look for in a vegetable, according to these old books, (break with a snap instead of bending, come with the green tops on and not wilted, not be dry or withered, in case you were wondering). It all looked mouthwatering and enticing in the way that supermarket veg just don't. I think it's a shame that we've lost all the local supply chains that could supply fresh, seasonal produce, and the fact that vegetables look horrible instead of appetising encourages people to eat other, less healthy things, instead.
Speaking of less healthy things, I also went to Walkers Bakery, which is totally old-school, and - do not snigger - bought a cream horn. Partly because I had been reading the recipe for pastry horns in the Odhams cookbook, and it occurred to me I'd never had one. Nor had I ever cooked one. I assumed you needed special implements, but apparently you can make one by wrapping the pastry around a carrot and then removing the carrot afterwards. Don't tell me you don't learn things you'll never need to know, reading this blog. Anyway it was yummy, although I felt a bit filthy eating it in the street.
Over lunch, I told my mum that I was thinking of trying to make puff pastry and asked if she had ever made it. Her response was that she had learned to cook in the early 50s and there wasn't a lot of butter around, which surprised me. It's easy to forget how long rationing went on after the war. I can remember my grandmother, who must've learned to cook in the 20s, making things with lots of butter and lard. Incidentally, I saw yesterday that Unilever are about to sell their margarine brands as people aren't buying margarine so much any more, which is excellent news as far as I'm concerned.
Anyway, I really wanted something nice for saturday dinner and I'd set my heart on this recipe: haddock and lobster pie, which is basically fish pie with a puff pastry lid. I'd never made puff pastry before, although I can make normal pastry. When I read the recipe as text it made no sense, but then I spotted this helpful set of photo instructions. The recipe was 12oz plain flour, 8 oz butter, but I halved that as I didn't want all that wasted if I messed it up. It feels weird rolling out butter with a rolling pin and you have to make it really floury to work. Neither the butter nor the pastry sheets came out in neat squares like in the picture, but I just tried to cover the layers in a way that made sense. It certainly took more time than regular pastry but I found these an excellent set of instructions, and it wasn't actually difficult. The resulting pastry was malleable and easy to handle. I cut the pastry lid and put the rest in the fridge in a piece of greaseproof paper.
To make the fish pie I poached the haddock (a fancy way of saying put it in a pan and covered it in milk to cook) then used the milk to make white sauce. Then I separated the haddock into chunks. Ironically this was way more hassle than the pastry: there were lots of tiny bones I had to pick out with my fingers, which took ages. The recipe basically just stated haddock, tinned lobster, white sauce and puff pastry, but I added a few extra things: parsley, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and a smidgen of cheddar cheese. I then layered the fish and the tinned lobster and the sauce and stuck the pastry on top. It didn't specify a time or heat setting but I put it on gas mark 5.
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For what it's worth this is an unusual recipe: a quick google on haddock and lobster pie revealed no results whatsoever. I absolutely would make this again: it was 'special occassion' cookery, but very much worth the effort involved, and guaranteed to impress anyone you cooked it for. I was also very pleased with how the pastry turned out. I also attempted a pudding, but it hadn't set in time so I decided to leave it until Sunday to sort that out.
Tuesday night I made Treacle Scones, from the Bestway book. I fancied this recipe because it struck me as unusual. This was quick and easy up to the point when I had to roll out the dough and realised that the maths involved just didn't work. Three-eighths of an inch is very thin, and given the quantity of dough, was either going to make a massive flat piece of dough, or loads more than 6-8 scones. So I tried one batch at the 3/8 thinness, with about half the dough cut into six. The other half I cut in four, rolled much thicker. There was no specific cooking time or heat, so I bunged them in at gas mark 5.
After a few minutes I opened the oven and whipped out one of the thin scones. It was fantastic: dark, crumbly, soft and treacly and not oversweet. At this point I made a mistake: I wasn't sure if it was done enough and decided to leave the scones another five minutes. When I got them out, the thin ones were definitely overdone, and the thick ones were heading towards it. The thin ones were ok hot, and I ate two with jam and cream dobbed on top, as they were too thin to cut up and were more like sconey biscuits. In the morning, the remaining thin scones were too hard to eat and I had to chuck the other three. The thick ones were OK, but I wish I'd just taken the whole lot out of the oven on the first look. I'd mentioned to work colleagues that I might bring scones in but as they were a bit substandard, I didn't bother. There were complaints about non-provision of scones, so I promised to make another batch next week, when hopefully I will get it right. I have to say these would be perfect for Hallowe'en/Bonfire night, and apart from my overcooking them, were quick to make. Also, they made the kitchen smell great.
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Anyway, the stuffed potato is basically a baked, restuffed potato so I put that in to bake first, then set about the celery soup. This was amazingly easy, involving only celery, onion, water, milk, butter and a stock cube. It starts with basically steaming the vegetables in a pan with butter, which is a technique used in the Edwardian cookbook I used last time as well. I don't understand why this isn't in modern cookbooks, unless it's because people are scared of butter. Maybe because it feels counter-intuitive; you keep expecting the contents to burn, which they don't as long as you keep the lid on. They just get all steamed and buttery, which must be a really good way of keeping the nutrients (and taste) in. You then add water, cream it and add milk. I used a handheld food processor, which is great, but I also had a look at the instructions in the cookbook of how to achieve the same result without a processor, which is to sieve it. It looks a horrific amount of hassle, not to mention washing up.
While this was on I stewed a pear and I found ingredients for the lemon sauce. I also decided to clear the dining table, which was covered in the general detritus of the week. At that point I remembered the book contained instructions on how to lay the table, and decided to go for it, because if you're going to cook a nice meal it seems a shame to eat in the middle of mess.
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One of the effects of doing all this cooking is that you start thinking about food and its significance in the way that you don't, usually. Earlier that evening I'd gone to the supermarket and while in the queue was entertaining myself by working out what you can work out about other shoppers by the contents of their baskets. A great deal, in fact: it's actually a weirdly intimate thing to do in public, like exhibiting your laundry basket. You can pretty much tell whether people are single or coupled (miserably or happily) part of a family, how much disposable income they enjoy, where they sit on a sort of hedonism to hairshirtism continuum, and whether they even use a kitchen, or just a microwave. You can tell whether they take care of themselves and those about them.
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And I wondered if it was because somewhere along the line society had got re-ordered by those who had never had to sieve soup or make pastry, and so consequently they thought this was a dumb job that could be replaced by a machine. And because they held all these soup-and-pastry-makers in low esteem they thought they could be got rid of and set to something more useful instead. And whether that wasn't a horrid mistake that actually removed something utterly necessary from society, so that we're all trying to get our self-esteem and sense of belonging from a chilled packet from the supermarket, instead. Anyway, I don't have answers to these questions, so the moral of this story is it's weird how making soup can send you off into a three-hour train of thought about patriarchy, feminism, technology, and emotional well-being, and if only they'd had another teller on the checkout in Lidl, or if the guy in front me hadn't been conspicuously buying food to go with his alcohol, none of this would've happened.
Anyway the celery soup was delicious. Really exceptionally good, like something you'd get in a posh French restaurant, and I am cross that no-one told me how to make it before given how ludicrously easy it was. It was also very cheap, and is certainly going on my staple recipes list. The stuffed potato (I used cheese and mushrooms, with butter and some mushroom ketchup) was also good, the mushrooms kind of steamed inside the potato. It also got round one of the technical problems of baked potatoes (look, I eat a lot of baked potatoes) which is when all the butter melts and runs out and pools in the dish instead of the potato, because the butter was contained in the skin. It was quite contained in a way that a normal baked potato isn't, so could be a good dish for parties, or if people were wandering round eating. Also, will cook again. I'm not going to post the recipe as it's a no-brainer.
The stewed pear was perfectly nice. The lemon sauce took loads of faffing, wouldn't set, and when I turned the heat up, turned into lemon-flavoured scrambled egg. Lemon flavoured scrambled egg is surprisingly edible, and I was really hungry by then, but that will not be reappearing on my cooking list. Non, no, nyet.
I haven't eaten the 43g tin of lobster, yet.
Day Two/Three Update
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By 8.30 I was ravenous so I went through the cookbooks looking for something to make in the meantime. I came upon this: I didn't have cream cheese, but I did have stilton, as well as the other ingredients, so I knocked together a salad. It was delicious, and staved off starvation until the soup was done.
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I was also going to make some treacle scones but due to the problems with the oxtail soup, decided to bump that forward a day.
Started this on Sunday, and is now the end of Wednesday. Can report that I feel:
a) Disgustingly healthy, with more energy than I usually would at this point of the week and
b) Really hacked off with doing loads of washing up.
Day One/Two Update
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Ever since I spent a week living out a Victorian cookbook last year, I've been wanting to do the same thing with another decade, and this week being otherwise a particularly boring one, seemed a good time to try. Having resisted the blandishments of the 1970s I opted for the 20s/30s. I have three cookbooks from that era so decided to use a combination of the three, and also to spread the enterprise over ten days, partly because last time I found it knackering having to blog every day. This will allow me to basically cook for two days, which is normally what I do anyway.
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Anyway I decided to be less 'planned' than last time, partly because I had three books to play with, and partly to follow the advice in the Odhams Press book to buy what looked fresh and wholesome. I went to the greengrocer, where it was immediately obvious that much of the vegetation completely failed to meet the standards laid out in the book. Ditto the vegetables in the supermarket. I bought bacon from the butcher and some oxtail to make oxtail soup, and went to Sainsbury's, emerging at the till looking like I was doing the shopping for my great-aunt who's been dead since 1963.
One thing I did notice in all the cookbooks is that seafood I can't afford appears as a common staple: oysters, sea-bream, lobster. At this point I got cross that I had never in my life eaten lobster, so I bought a 43g tiny tin for £1.10. I'm puzzled as to how on an island all these things got impenetrably expensive, when they clearly didn't use to be. Answers on a haddock skin, please.
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Good read, thanks. Would like to know the answer re your query about fish / prices too.
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